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Method
Marketing Newsletter: Volume 2 Issue 28
June 10th, 2002
Restaurants
That Give Great "Experience"
Second
Avenue Deli, New York City
Part II
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Synopsis:
Great
food is just one part of a great show, but at the Second
Avenue Deli, it is the last in a line of showstoppers.
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"Abe is privy to the highly inexact alchemy of traditional,
instinctual Jewish cooking as handed down by word of Mothers .
. . . You have to feel what the food calls for and add that imprecise
pinch, dab, smear, drop or blip."
Sam Levenson quoted in The Saturday Review 3/1/80
Your
guests define 'value' by the totality of the experience:
the service, the décor, the food and its flavors
and aromas and the cost: all details that create a memory.
The most memorable experiences come from an organized,
well-rehearsed and communicated performance. Great 'word
of mouth' is built note by note, scene by scene, act by
act, so that by the end of the visit your guest walks
away 'wowed'. Or bored. Or, worse of all, disgusted. It's
your choice. |
You
stand amazed by a dining room, filled with a veritable cross
section of America talking...well actually yelling at one another
in mostly affectionate displays of the idiosyncratic game of
love, New York Style. The atmosphere is replete with the sounds
and smells of the ritualistic "breaking of bread".
Slack jawed and mesmerized until a guy behind the take-out line
calls out, "What'll it be?" I look through the stainless
steel shelving at a Chinese fella, red with effort and wet with
perspiration. The Second Avenue Deli may specialize in classic
Jewish delicatessen food, but the United Nations works here.
Even that is part of the story. Every ethnic group works shoulder
to shoulder. In this place, that is both literal and figurative.
You could say that the inclusive hiring is just the natural
reaction to the changing labor market, but this group is just
too diverse. I believe it is a brilliant stroke of melting-pot
marketing. And regardless of the race or ethnic background,
they all share the same attitude best described as: hospitably
no-nonsense. They communicate the remarkable dual message of
"Hurry Up and Thank You". It takes a special
gift to make you feel that you owe it to them to get on with
it. So you step up to the counter before someone else elbows
in. Here it is: "You moves or you lose."
"One pound of brisket, please." I ask, liberated out
of my WASP born reticence. "Good choice." my guy reassures
me. As I wait and watch them slice the moist, warm roast, I
am distracted by a guy who may be the owner or just another
character explaining to an elderly lady customer just how
the system works. "Darling, I said '$45' a whole
salami. Believe me, I know these things. I am the pricer."
The woman bargains some more, 'hondling' in the vernacular,
but the gent, in a tiny black leather fedora and a graying ponytail
will have none of it. "$45. Finished."
I turn back and become aware of the stacks of deli accoutrements
reaching to the ceiling. It dawns on me. A wall of reinforced
deli groceries protects the guys prepping my order! This is
a new kind of war. Jars of sweet-spicy mustard, bags of rugalech,
loaves of challah bread, to-go containers, plastic utensils,
take-out tins provide the deli-soldiers with just enough of
a slit to see the customers and be able to hand you a couple
of slices of product while you wait. I get my two slabs of brisket,
laid out on deli paper. My guy nods as if to say, "Go on,
eat." And I do. Heaven is here on Second Avenue and 10th
Street. He winks and nods again, sharing a telepathic "It's
good, huh?" I nod back, "Oh my god."
I pay a fortune. No discounts here, no cheapies and no problem.
They could probably charge admission and I would troop down
like a million other starving souls. Every second is a show,
unique and unto itself. What a place. Go. Eat. Enjoy.
In
the next issue we discuss The Best
Kind of 'Buzz'. --> GO
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